Tenish Direct

5.11b • Trad • Gunks

Sent — April 18, 2026. Redpoint after four sessions of beta work. Went easily on the send.

The crux is a stand-up sequence off the traverse — technical but very specific once you have the feet and hands sorted. A few burns over the years to dial it, then it went clean. Knee bar before the crux gives you a chance to compose.

Beta

Left foot on the edges close in, right foot on the low nub
Right hand in the jug flake sidepull
Left hand reaches up to the good edge
Stand up — skip the left hand sloper, go straight to the sharp nub above it
Step left foot high, huck right hand to the corner
Work right foot high, huck left hand to the jug

Gear

Two blue totems in the traverse. Whatever you can sew up in the knee bar. Ballnuts for the 5.10 move before the knee bar — micro nuts aren't great there.

No Mountain Project listing confirmed for this route.