Slammin' the Salmon

5.12a/b/c • Trad • Gunks • Mountain Project

Three sessions in, around eleven burns total. The grade is debated — 12a to 12c depending on who you ask, which is typical for Gunks. The bottom crux has beta figured out: skip the famous thumbercling entirely, layback the sharp crimps instead, and go left hand to an edge a bit higher than where the thumbercling would put you. Cleaner than the standard sequence once you see it.

Latest session (Apr 21, top rope) the moves started to feel connected — real progression from earlier burns. The top crux is the remaining problem. I've been trying the direct exit instead of the standard sequence — not committed to it yet, but it's feeling plausible. Should go soon.

Beta

Skip the thumbercling — don't use it
Layback the sharp crimps
Left hand goes up to an edge slightly higher than the right thumbercling position
Top crux: working the direct exit