Carbs and Caffeine

5.11a • Trad • The Trapps, Gunks • Mountain Project

My main flash project this season. Two pitches — P1 is straightforward 5.9, P2 is the climb. There's a crux sequence of crimps mid-pitch, a key knee-bar rest, then a final hand traverse roof to finish.

I onsighted Nurse's Aide (5.10d) in the same area last fall and the roof section felt easy — more physical than technical. That gave me confidence the style suits me. I've studied the beta thoroughly and think a flash is realistic, maybe 50-60% odds.

Beta Notes

P1 is 5.9 — save energy, don't climb it like it matters
P2: Don't clip the second bolt from below — commit to the crimps first, then clip
Key knee-bar rest after the first crux — shake out completely before moving on
Blue Alien placement in hidden horizontal crack
#2 Camalot is the crucial piece at the thank-God stance
Final roof traverse: trust your hands and keep moving — don't barn-door

Gear

Blue Alien and #2 Camalot are the critical pieces. Red C3 for the thin crack on the traverse.

Conditions

Needs dry, cool weather. Gunks seeps badly and the crimps get greasy when humid.